How we install tarmac (vs how cheap companies do it)
There are two ways to tarmac a drive. One lasts 20 years. One lasts until it's your problem, not the installer's.
The proper install (what we do):
- Excavate to 200mm, remove all soft spoil.
- Lay 150mm MOT Type 1, compacted in layers.
- Lay binder course (40mm) — the tough, coarse tarmac underneath. Hot. Rolled properly.
- Lay wearing course (25mm) — the smooth, fine-stone tarmac on top. Also hot, also properly rolled.
- Concrete edge haunching to hold the perimeter.
The cheap install (what gets sold for £30/m²):
- Brush the existing rubble.
- Tip one thin layer of tarmac — often already going cold.
- Tamp it with a wacker plate.
- Leave. Take the cash.
The single question that exposes a cheap quote:
"Is this a two-coat install, and what's the depth of the binder and wearing course?" If they can't answer in under 10 seconds — it's single-coat. Walk away.
Types of tarmac we lay
- Standard black macadam (6mm) — the classic finish. Smooth, modern, ages to matte grey-black.
- Stone mastic asphalt (SMA) — denser, more durable, often used on commercial. Slightly higher cost.
- Red tarmac — decorative alternative. Great for heritage settings or matching brickwork.
- Coloured tarmac (bound pigment) — buff, green, pink available. Wears well, looks distinctive.
What tarmac costs in Elton
- Small drive (30m²): £2,400–£3,500
- Medium drive (50m²): £3,800–£5,200
- Large drive (80m²+): £5,800–£8,000+
- Long farm drive / shared access: price falls to £50–£60/m² at scale.
Tarmac vs block paving — the honest answer
People ask us this weekly. Here it is plainly:
- Pick tarmac if: drive is 40m²+, you want low maintenance, and you don't mind a single-colour finish.
- Pick block paving if: drive is smaller, kerb appeal is the priority, or you want patterns or multiple colours.
- Price difference: tarmac is roughly 30–45% cheaper per m² than block paving for the same spec underneath.
The finishing touches that separate us
Most tarmac installers tarmac right to the house or right to the grass. We don't. Every tarmac drive we do includes:
- A block-paved border (one or two courses) — breaks the monotony, adds kerb appeal.
- A recessed drainage channel where fall demands it — no puddles.
- Concrete-haunched edges — holds the tarmac firm for the next 20 years.
- Laser-levelled fall — water runs off, not pools up.
That's why our tarmac drives still look intentional 10 years on. Not just "tipped out of a truck".